BFW: Briar–Rose Kelleher

When I got home from the Brighton Frocks show, I had to google what DMT was, as through my sheltered life I had no clue that it was in fact a hallucinogenic drug. This exploration was needed as Briar-Rose Kelleher’s collection was entitled, ‘Marie Antoinette took DMT’ and thanks to google the collection in its entirety made sense.

Inspired by not only Marie Antoinette but the whole stereotype of French life at Versailles, women were featured with large dusted hair and powdered faces. Kelleher’s collection felt to me like ‘Versailles after dark.’ Picture in your head that after all the visitors leave the palace, a select few remain with the King and Queen – that’s when the real fun begins!

The first model took the catwalk half undressed, in leatherette underwear and a lavishly stiff structured corset that formed a pointed train. From then the audience was wowed by tight floor length dresses in brown baroque fabric with flecks of gold thread, in both a concealed design and a creation that completely exposed the wearer’s breasts.

Redesigning the body shape the dresses were tightly formed with lace corsetry and tight black belts. The most noticeable was a gown with a tight bodice and large bellowing hips that gave the model a heart shaped frame. Walking out stunned was a model who wore a silk mandarin collared-cropped jacket with nothing underneath but a strapped horse’s head, giving the image of a woman caught naked by the French King, covering herself up with his prized horse’s head.

Ending with a doll-like floor length cape, with dancing horses printed onto the fabric, the model’s garment appeared in contrast to the rest of the tightly shaped designs. Perhaps as a representative of Marie Antoinette in her angelic robes, restoring order to her sexual playthings, tripping on DMT.

Through this collection I had managed to create an entire story of my own, my own fashion trip on DMT, showing the well-structured designs and thinking behind Kelleher’s creations.