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Saturday 17 September 2011
Words Spindle

Escaping the mid-afternoon heat and entering an even warming BFC tent, it almost felt like summer hadn’t left us. At the Jean Pierre Braganza show however it had.

Opening with a pixelated shift dress in black and grey, the look appeared cold and mechanical against the flowing dress. This continued as garments were walking onto the catwalk in seas of grey, stone-like shades and monochrome whilst the backing tracked proclaimed, ’where’s my summer sky?…it’s gone.’

And perhaps that was the message at Braganza, the disappearance of the summer sunshine, leaving nothing more but grey clouds and grey dresses. As the show continued though the collection got slightly warmer, from cream trouser suits with heavy shoulder pads to kaki jumpsuits, until it felt as if Braganza had managed to split a red diamond in half and a burst of heavy red and corals took the place of the white in the monochromatic pallet.  Dresses almost looked like they were on fire whilst cut out detailing exposing the models ribs and sharp hipbones felt as if the model was being burnt up by the sun, who finally made an appearance at Braganza’s Spring Summer show.

The collection ended with the same opening dress, yet the pixels had gone from grey to coral perhaps a full circle in Braganza’s mind. Upon leaving my necklaces and fur hat was randomly caressed by musician turned shop owner, turned celebrity stylist Brix Smith Start, who I asked (when comparing her turkey feathers to my fox!) ‘Would you stock Braganza for next summer?’ ‘We have in the past, but not right now dear.’ Perhaps it was the overall coldness on a very warm September day that prevented her from saying yes.

For more pics, info and interviews, check out our dedicated London Fashion Week page.