‘It began in Afrika ka ka ka,’ as the Chemical Brothers club beat murmured at Kokon to Zai’s Spring/Summer show.
The collection was a mixture of Africana and 80’s flashbacks. Of Africa in bondage and giant fuchsia ribboned dresses and tulip skirts that would look fitting on Cyndi Lauper. Oversized tees and Raincoats in black mosquito-like netting were attached with traditional Maasai beaded necklaces. Whilst digital prints of the same traditional jewellery were printed upon skin tight dresses, bomber jackets and bondage straps.
Bondage straps and harnesses appeared throughout the collection, on visors, bumbags, shorts and dresses, with one look creating the feel of ‘Bridal punk’ with a harness dress and black embroidered netted veil. Contrasting the collection which overall was beautifully heavy and gothic, were sheer tribal printed pieces in peaches and pinks that complimented against the black leather dresses and huge gold disk earrings.
It was such a strong collection it is impossible to focus and pin down one piece. Throughout the models looked like strong Amazonian women in KTZ frocks and the theme that seemed like an aliens crash landing in Africa after a visit to Kings Road circa 79’ was beyond comparison to any trends that are forming for next summer, making it an individual subversive collection if there ever was one.
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