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LFW: Jayne Pierson

Monday 20 February 2012
Words Spindle

At Jayne Pierson’s sixth season she showcased her Autumn Winter collection of luxurious woven wool with a film. This was influenced by organic shapes and created with symmetry and balance. The silhouettes are deferential to nature and the colour earthy too and through biomorphic fabric manipulations the semblance of mushroom gills, plant skeletons and leaf veins were created with fish skins and. undulating pleat worked leather. This collection stays true to the Jayne Pierson trademark of  her fascination with the physical properties of fabrics and the testing of their possibilities creating complex new forms. Prior to her film screening I have a chat with her.

Tell me a little about your inspirations for this collection?

For me it’s always about the same person, the same character and how the story evolves through seasonal collections. This character travels through space and time and time is displaced, she goes forwards and backwards through it so she transcends time in lots of ways.

Her name is Modrun, so she’s a goddess but she’s also facets of many people; she develops her relationship with nature and looks at traditional values, revisits her past, her emotional life and she can evolve herself in ways we can never understand, so this has been going on from the very first collection. She wears talismans to protect herself and the pleated leather that this model is wearing is supposed to have this element of protection, and we have used oilskin and poly-coated linens to develop this fabric. It’s very light but it can be worn outside as its durable, its windproof and waterproof.

We have also worked with Melin Tregwynt, which is a one hundred year old Pembrookeshire woolen mill, to develop this idea of bespoke wool and fabric.  It’s very important for us to manufacture in Wales, to have this idea of slow fashion, to continue this heritage of craftsmanship; the Burberry and the Agent Provocateur factory is in Wales, so there is a high level of pattern cutting and machinists there so we want to keep that.

What drew you to fashion?

I come from a music background, I used to be signed to EMI as a songwriter and singer and then an A and R, signing acts.

There is quite a harmony between music and fashion, perhaps that’s where it started to interest you?

Yes, it’s like when you are on stage and you start to be a character and put on the clothes – what is that inexplicable point when clothes have that defining moment and that element of being someone else on stage is the same process for who wears a garment in a way.

And I am very interested in how that psychoanalysis of costume, of when it’s a character and when it’s not, and what that point is. And I’m researching into that at the moment – I have applied to do my doctorate at the RCA in women’s wear.

What was the most challenging aspect of putting this together?

Balancing family life and children basically, I have got two 6 year old twins, it takes over, it’s all consuming but it’s never dull. It’s always interesting.

Would you say the message of this collection is about self betterment?

It sort of is…it’s to do with questions with life, which has come from possibly my age, why we do what we do and how we evolve ourselves, what does it all mean?

Tell me about the film?

Well we were lucky, we had snow! We had the idea of using a lot of different camera angles, creating not so much an advertorial but more of a short film telling a story which we want to have with narration for next season, we want to make a more of a film then a fashion film showing a series of garments and avoid the cliches. I’d love to make the sort of film that would be shown at festivals.

*Thanks very much Jayne and wish you the best of luck.*