LFW: Mens Day

Asger Juel Larsen photograph by Alan Parker

This seasons menswear immersion was one of the strongest signs of style innovation I’ve seen to date in London. Certain womenswear can personally get lost in repetition, but the men were all about the future, adventure, and wherever the f**k they wanted to their their aesthetics! J W Anderson opened the day with a sci-fi 60s infusion through a collage of neon colours and quilting. But the runway really exploded in industrial fashion with Christopher Shannon. His trademark urban sport persona was on booming show with a tougher but equally romantic collection to what he’s previously shown. Tough lumberjack prints knuckled into sharp metal shirts for a clash of the titans, the trousers had a black and white intoxicating tapestry, and rucksacks were a thunderstorm of hanging and angry metal. A ‘factory worker’ style came into play too with slouched cardigans surgically stitched upside down to the statement jumper for a touch of double trouble. James Long took aran knits to Arctic animalistic knots and levels, with jumpers and scarf’s inextricably linked. The ‘inside out’ appeal was on show again in his collection, with nettle firecracker texture and intricate gold shirt designs that looked like Egyptian scientific experiments. Shearling and colourful patchwork tamed the dominance of leather jackets, and velvet was brought into the bohemian city mix. Beards were back with a real bang this season, with models and men-of-the-crowd enriched with serious stubble. Oliver Spencer coated his models facial hair with a rusty apocalyptic vibe, suggesting that old age is the new born look. His collection was the real serving of sophistication of the day, with earthy suits mixed up with unconventional cardigans, and bright colours darting behind a rusty waistcoat. Attention then turned to Vauxhall Fashion Scout, where Asger Juel Larsen entertained the Gothic side in us. His soviet inspiration was on army regimented form, with a collection that indulged in heavy trench jackets, leather upon leather, and daggers of blood red to present something aggressive and equally romantic. So there you have it, a day of sci-fi, stubble, goths, and east 17 attitude!