Always a very popular one due to her iconic status and the reputation for her designs for unashamed audacity, unparalleled creativity and a superfluousness of wit, this show was no exception. True to form there were hissy-fits in the queue about non-admittance and the spilling of the cringe-worthy phrase, ‘do you know who I am?’ which should only be overheard in the asylums and homes of the bewildered. As ever the upper echelons of alternative fashionable London all came out to show support and I stand corrected when I said Spijkers en Spijkers was the most obscenely packed show I’d witnessed at Freemasons Hall, this time I felt like some fur fondling pervert, as it was the attire of the choice for the two ladies in the vicinity of my face which I had to move closer towards and in-between in my small-statured vain attempts to see!
But despite my less than comfortable spot, I was very impressed by what I saw and was indeed my favourite of Pam’s collections. It screamed of overt sexuality with the sheerest of her signature catsuits meaning not much modesty for the models as a good portion were completely transparent beyond some artfully placed patches and interesting looking lines. At one point the audience was amused as they appreciated Pam’s sense of humour by the positioning of fur in an intimate place.
In stark comparison to the modernity and nudity of the suits were the twee bonnets of the American West in the 1800s and the make-up painted to look like innocent if a little eerie old fashioned dolls, with white faces, black lips, and a black mono-brow, they looked almost like a Pierrot and the show the quality of a harlequinade. The very tight catsuits contrasted with all the volume of the large bonnet was striking and a lovely detail was that where it was tied meant the large ribbon of the bonnet made the bow look like a charming necktie and the model a gift. There were many that consisted of sheer black and true black and others in a very scarlet red, and a futuristic series of golds, silvers and copper bronzes.
There were also a couple of outfits which as well as being experimental and outrageous were also extremely pretty with sequined numbers and a lovely long sheer pink gown and was probably the dress which caused me to declare after the show that I would like to wear some of the things I saw which of course prompted my companions to question whether in fact I had gone a bit mad before deciding that they would probably quite suit me. Well done Pam, you continue to wow and inspire.
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Photography by Kris Mitchell.