Served up in one sitting, the show commenced with a projection of war scenes to signal the militia theme of Larson’s luxe Autumn Winter Collection. With leather in shades of black and red, sleeveless blazers, burgundy faux fur and a marching model army in Ushanka hats there was a very Moscow meets London mood. There were utilitarian elements such as zips and hoods and features of suave modernity with printed suits, a berry overcoat and overlapping edges to garments. Traditional, yet contemporary with shiny desirable details, it seemed to be saying, this is new aesthetic, from Russia, with love.
While Tom Lipop presented an elegantly waisted offering complete with neat lines and interesting modern details such as a blue collarless edge to edge jacket, shiny hoods on leathers, slim fits juxtaposed with unstructured trousers and like in Larson’s there was a spotlight on the grandeur of red garments and furry accessories contrasted and complemented with the minimal masculine tailoring. The showpiece was midnight blue and burnt orange digital print coat with an overflowing fur lined hood, mmm, luxurious.