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Milan Fashion Week

Tuesday 25 September 2012
Words Spindle

Dsquared went back to the 90s and made a house party, with tasteless being given a total refurbishment. Bling has never looked more desirable, with a waterfall of gold chains lassoed over a bikini in a “why the hell not” fashion. The dresses looked kinky and naughty, the sticky black police hats had a ‘Pretty Woman rebel’ emphasis, and hot pink kept the cheeky collection so eye catching.

Dolce & Gabbana went for a fruity Spanish feel, with models looking like carnival beauties that like to sample every colour with sassy attitude. Taking puppet theatrics and stringing them into the print, the collection was soaking in the richest colours. I found myself imagining Penelope Cruz in Volver; the hidden village hotty who trots to the bakery in a show stopping frock.

Jil Sander had an Amish air about SS13, with minimal dresses that deliciously ‘sacked’ on the body for a clinical aesthetic in creamy colours.

Gucci’s collection could practically glow in the dark. Pink has never been so powerful, executed in unavoidable head to toe looks. If Barbie was a business bitch, chances are this would be her wardrobe. Adding classy eccentricity to the looks, unexpected twirls and frills found their way to the sleeves and necklines, managing to create a chic and slightly distorted silhouette.

Etro was an Eastern delight, with oriental patterns butterflying over ice white dresses. Like a laid back Geisha, the collection was relaxed and decadent, with origami structure coming through to add that little punch.

Rodarte looked like the teenage rebel that grew up but still wanted to make a point that the wild side is lurking inside. The dresses had aggressive eye catching prints, the materials had you guessing and intrigued, looking like armour to an extent. Black had a crystallized sting to it, for a collection that rocked in its gothic sci-fi glamorous intentions. If you spot a girl in Rodarte, watch out!

If you plan on moving to Space, consider Eudon Choi for your new way of living. Minimal but tough, fizzy black and white collided with stardust for out of this world edge and elegance.

Words: Charles Matthews