Topman made its mark on Monday with the look of a refined arctic sci-fi explorer, with booming anoraks setting the tone over single breasted suits and the return of the turtle neck. No longer a fashion movement depicted solely by Frasier Crane. Colour then came into play, extremely, with hot pinks and acid orange adding a volcanic touch to the looks. Epic, loud, but undeniably wearable, Topman Design yet again execute the belief in the everyday eccentric.
The last Hackett collection had a Great Gatsby charm about it. This time there was a darker and more seductive tone to the suit, with a medley of textures and prints under the trademark care of Jeremy and the brand. Holdalls played heavy, and Erin O Connor even crashed the male parade at the end. She’s VIP in any arena so that’s okay.
Astrid Andersen excited with a trippy but equally conservative sportswear collection. Creamy gold and purple, dark denim jumpsuits, oversized silky t shirts followed by turtle neck tucked-in versions. It was the best of both worlds; tough and dangerous, but with a touch of glam that doesn’t scream and shout about it.
My favourite new designer is Craig Green. Inspired by shadows and reflections, the collection used layering to create disguise, invite interpretation, and generally play with the senses. Like a runway jigsaw, tops looked deconstructed, inside out, 3D, and everything else in between. The sense of delicacy and intricacy that comes with this aesthetic touches on the league of extraordinary androgynous gentleman. But what watermarks Craig’s original look is that sense of woodland and fairytale that structures itself under the dark and mysterious collection.
I didn’t particularly feel for Vivienne Westwood, lets move on.
Please Kill Me, Sibling was an infectious and cuddly display that took my heart. An “exercise in both fluff and tough for men”, oversized sweaters and scarves candyfloss whirled into mittens and headgear, with melt-in-the-middle colours and a sense of knitted possession. Humour with exquisite taste.
The model haircuts for Martine rose distracted my thoughts to a previous winner of America’s Next Top Model, Saleisha. Damn that bowl haircut and the tangents it incurs. The collection, meanwhile, was ghetto in the campest manner, where ‘Diana Ross’, ‘denim’, ‘disco pants’, oh, and ‘beer mats’ were words that came to mind. Old man pub prints for pints were used as a pathwork for the collection, and I loved the colorful result.
A final note goes to Katie Eary with a delicious and poisonous acid floral print in pink. It reminds me of childhood games that were inspired by Dexter’s Laboratory, where I’d put drops of paint and flowers in glass bottles to form potions and perfumes.
Words: Charlie Matthews