I created this natural look for Rebecca @Premier Models when shooting a few headshots with photographer John Cubillan last week. For these shots minimal makeup is required. The same goes for actors and other professional castings. This look also translates well for day to day wear and professional interviews too. It’s the “no makeup makeup” if you will.
1. To begin, spend a fair bit of time on skin. Try using Dermalogica’s Daily Microfoliant to slough away dead skin cells and reveal fresh skin underneath. Then apply a decent moisturiser to plump up the skin from within. I like Dermalogica Active Moist (1). I also like to use their Multi Vitamin Power Firm Serum (2) around the eye area and also on the lips to condition the skin and prep it for makeup. (Their range is fragrance free making it ideal for use on all skin types.)
2. Use a foundation which allows the skin to breath and looks fresh. Heavy coverage is only going to sit in pores and look more obvious. Leave the coverage to concealor and use something like Mac Face & Body Foundation (3) which is water based and looks fresh and natural on the skin. Conceal with Estee Lauder Disappear Smoothing Cream Concealor (4) which doesn’t settle into fine lines around the eyes. Use a blending brush and a tapping motion with your finger to push the product into the skin around dark circles and blemishes.
3. Set the makeup with a natural light reflective powered like Mac Skinfinish Natural (5). I used a basic powder brush and applied it to the t- zone only *forehead, nose and chin*. This powder is so fine it doesn’t look like makeup – it reflects light and sets foundation without showing texture.
4. Rather than using a lot of coloured products I tend to choose products that mimic the skins natural flushes and textures. For cheeks keep it really simple. I used Nars Laguna Bronzer (6) to sculpt Rebecca’s cheekbones. The tone of the bronzer is natural creates a great lift to cheekbones.
5. I keep eye makeup as low key as possible for headshots. I love Max Factor Masterpiece Mascara (7) specifically for this kind of look as its separating and defining with no chance of clumping. A soft brown shadow can be swept into outer eye crease but if you choose to do this make sure it is only a few shades up from your skin tone and really really blend it in. I’m a gloss fiend so I used a dab of Mac Gloss Texture clear gloss on the inner tear duct and middle of the eyelid.
6. Groom brows by filling in any gaps lightly with a Mac Brow Pencils – I used Lingering (8) which is a good tone for blondes (they have a really good range for all hair colours so be sure to find the right shade to match). I then blended the pencil in with a small angled brush and set the colour with Clear Brow Gel (9) also by Mac.
7. Lastly keep lips soft. Sometimes I use a beige or nude lip pencil that is a few shades darker than the lips natural colour like (like Mac Subculture lip pencil.) On this particular occasion I used Nars Belle Du Jour lipstick (10) which is a gorgeous warm nude.
Remember that less is more with this look. The idea is to create a flawless makeup using as little product as possible. Skincare is essential in making the skin glow from within and tones should be kept neutral.
Words: Tabby Casto