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Christopher Raeburn Kept It Cool For AW14

Thursday 20 February 2014
Words Spindle

With the first look made of “cabbages”, Christopher Raeburn didn’t stick to convention this season. But don’t fret, this is a term he’s coined for cloth scraps left from original pattern cuttings – and what beautiful “cabbages” these were. 

The model was a walking “teddy bear”, complete with a cream faux-fur gilet and jet black accessories. Wherever she was heading, she was fashionably equipped for the coldest of spells. This jacket, crafted from Siberian military coats, signalled a collection focussed heavily on up-cycling, the practice of reusing materials to create high-end garments.

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Raeburn waved goodbye to the bodycon this season – shapes were loose fitting but flattering – but he embraced the beanie. Every model wore a snug fitting hat and this injected a youthful, go-getter spirit into some of the smarter looks and showed a realistic appreciation of how blisteringly bad the weather can get in London.

The colour palette was neutral yet considered – a beige trench-dress had contrasting blue sleeves, beige jackets were paired with white tops and a khaki pullover was teamed with black oversized trousers. However, Raeburn refused to send his girls into Arctic conditions without a statement piece or two. Splashes of fluoro orange were a shock to the system but showed that wrapping up warm need not be a chore.

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The fun didn’t stop here. Polar bear motifs kept the show lighthearted and can’t-wait-to-run-your-fingers-through fur garments ensured the desirability factor was sky high. Most intriguing though were the prints – born from 1930s Russian illustrations of mountains of ice and mystical lights, the designs were weird and wonderful.

A succinct collection that mirrored what we saw in January at LC:M, Raeburn will ensure you look ultra cool when Winter comes knocking.

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Words: Christopher Maul