After the muted faces in Milan, Paris pushed out the boat, thought outside the box and brought back the “fun” elements of the fashion world.
It seems the rule of thumb in Paris is don’t be scared to mix your products up – use lipstick as blusher, eye colours as contour and glosses for eyes lips and cheeks.
This is perfect if you are going out and unexpectedly only have three products rattling around in the bottom of your handbag…GO FOR IT!
The face for MANISH ARORA designed by KABUKI was inspired by “young girls, happy, fun, bright: candy crush meets Tibetan village women who go through galaxy lands into Lapland on Christmas and through the sweet shop.” It’s all about matte skin with a rosy flush on the cheeks, but using fingers to push the colour on instead of traditional blusher brushes.
The eyes were a bright yellow, a paintstick used on the inner corner was applied with lemon pigment to set and red acrylic paint used as eyeliner. Blue lashes customised with feathers to exaggerate. The face was adorned with jewels to finish the look… Bonkers but a light relief and expected from Manish Arora!
AARON DE MEY for KENZO came up with a 1950s inspired punk. Pale beautiful skin using the Conceal & Correct palette was enhanced by one of my favourite illuminating products from Mac Pearl Cream Colour Base. This was used around the edge of the eye and cheekbones for a soft shimmery look.
The eyebrows had a pencil applied from the middle of the brow out to the tail. which created the 50’s shape. Ultra Marine Chromaline was drawn in a clean line over the eye and lifted in the corner. A favourite used for the lips was Mac Lip Conditioner very cleverly mixed with a touch of concealer to give a little body to the naked look.
ALEX BOX designed faces for ISSEY MIYAKE using the inspiration of “spirits in the forest.” A lot of the products used were exciting new additions available in Fall/winter 2014. Personally I can’t wait to get my hands on some of these. The skin technique was all about mixing a little Strobe Liquid with a foundation using a small brush to even and tone. The area around the eyes were brightened with a small amount of Prep + Prime Radiant Rose Highlighter stick.
New lip colours Dusty Mauve and Close To You, available this spring, were mixed and used as blusher. The eyes had new products Storm Cloud ( available later this Spring) and Au Nature Cream Colour Base (available this Autumn/Winter) blended together and applied over the eyelid and throughout the crease to sculpt and contour. Superwatt Electric Cool Eyeshadow was applied under the eye and the centre of the eyelid was highlighted with Pure Flash Electric Cool eyeshadow (both available this Autumn/Winter.)
Lastly the inner corner was popped with another new product Copperthon Fluidline. The lips were hydrated with lip conditioner and then cleaned off.
Val Garland desighned for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL
All I can say is true to form Val did not let us down with her creativity…She was “inspired by the peruvian Ashanika Tribe’s face graphism…Wonderful people who care about the forest, which is their home.” Using “studio sculpt to even skin tone and Transparent Finishing Powder over the T- zone, Val then used Groundwork Paintpot under cheekbones to contour.I am loving the versatility of this product which has been very popular on catwalk this season.
Crimson Lipmix was applied over the apples of the cheeks with Russian Red Lipglass over the top (applied with a brush) , again a lip colour as a blusher.
The tribal face markings and dots were applied with M.A.C White Acrylic Paint. Again the lip conditioner tube was blotted away to remove shine, this technique has been used a lot.
INGE GROGNARD FOR the designer IRIS VAN HERPEN took nude look to the extreme.
She took her inspiration as “Glazed, plastic skin….plastic but still alive.”
Full coverage foundation was used to achieve a “high polished flawless, pore-less perfect skin” and Groundwork Paint Pot mixed with Camel Coat Paint Pot was used to sculpt and contour under the cheekbones.
Layers of Fix + Spray were spritzed over the skin allowing drying time between each layer. This created an ” ultra shiny plastic effect” on the skin.
Mascara was used only on the upper lashes to lift the eyes and a little eye kohl “phone number” in the lower waterline to give more definition.
Clear Lipglass was layered over the eyelid and into the brow. The natural lip colour was toned down with a full cover foundation patted down with a clear lip glass to finish. The overall effect was a wide eyed flawless nude…beautiful.
The nails for GARETH PUGH by MARIAN NEWMAN were a work of art..more like a painting or work in progress.
I think the image speaks for itself.
To roundup the shopping list, Paris top products were :
STUDIO SCULPT foundation
PEARL CREAM COLOUR BASE for highlighting
GROUNDWORK PRO LONGWEAR PAINTPOT used as cheek contour/eye colour
LIP COLOURS used as blushers
LIP CONDITIONER TUBE
and products to look out for in the fall are…
Storm Cloud available in Spring and Au Nature Cream Colour Base – simply beautiful eye colours.
Words by Jay Pinxie Turnbull
Images courtesy of Mac