Interview: Jacob Birge

After seeing Jacob Birge’s collection at London Fashion Week, it was difficult to get it out of our heads. With an entire array of asymmetric beauties, we were mesmerised by the designs. Jacob Birge combines what you never thought went together, we can safely say it’s not for the fainthearted.

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Well to start with, we’ve obviously got to mentioned your AW15 collection that was shown at LFW, which was actually one of our favorite shows, how did it go for you?

Thanks, it’s so nice to hear that. It was a thoughtful experience, preparations, model casting, putting all the elements together, especially as I had a show in Warsaw four days before London. But everything was great at the end, I am still happy with the collection, the music, the hair and makeup (special thanks for Toni and Guy, and MUA people, and my stylist (Gabi Gnat) LOVE).

The collection seems to bring together both femininity and power, how did you keep this balance?

My design is about connecting contradictions – masculinity vs. femininity, black vs. white, short vs. long – so I am trying to bring all those elements in my collections.

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If youre pieces champion the strong-minded, liberated women of the future, who would you love to see wearing you designs based on this? And why?

My obvious type after participation of Project Runway could be Anja Rubik (host and a judge of the Project Runway) she’s a supermodel – very powerful, sexy, open-minded. Looking at her all the time in the show was a great inspiration, but I also love androgynous women such as Stella Tennant, Grace Jones and Saskia De Brauw.

Youve used asymmetry a lot in you collection, most powerfully in the trouser/short piece! What is the actual power that you think the asymmetry in the collection brings?

In fashion there are plenty of clothes and not many new ideas. I think that was one of the most powerful ideas in this collection, discovering different silhouettes and proportions looking from the left and right side. Femininity vs. masculinity.

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Speaking of power… What super power do you think women who wear your pieces would most likely love to have? Or… What super power would you most like to have?

Ermm… My women would love to fly as Superman, and me… I would love to be immortal.

There was a lot of print mixing in the collection, why did you want to incorporate these mixes into your pieces?

Prints are actually quite new to me, usually I prefer a flat texture. It was sort of exercise – I wanted to mixed prints that at a first look did not match together. Mixing different species can bring something new.

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When it came to material there was a vast array there too, and also interesting ways of piecing it together. In a lot of the dresses in the collection, they were ‘strungtogether as it were, different strips and pieces. What were the inspirations behind these dresses?

I am most inspired by what I see. I just sewed the shoestrings, which I thought were beautiful, so I decided to make dresses out of them.

Theres also lots of applique, that patent jacket with the silver studded-esque detailing was ah-may-zing. What do you think elements such as these bring to your AW15 collection?

The jacket was definitely a showpiece – it took me quite some time to make it, but it was worth it. A good collection has ups and downs, and this piece was one of the highlights for sure – it is structured, powerful, and I think burgundy and silver works well together.

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Credits 

Model: Maja Bezpalko, Olga Radwan – Mango Models
Photo: Pawe? Wyl?g Photography
MUA: Marta G?ska Make up
Hair: DAWID KRYNICKI
Assistant: Dastin Porazi?ski
Shoes: MYS Fashion
Location : Spektrum Building Warsaw