A Catwalk Homage to David Bowie
On the final morning of LCM, the shock news broke that David Bowie had died of cancer. A number of designers staging their collections that day worked a small homage to the British music and fashion icon into their shows, as models wore glam rock-inspired glitter eye makeup at shows like Burberry and Xander Zhou. In fact, Christopher Bailey went one further at Burberry, playing hit Bowie tracks before and after the show, while on the catwalk, model Hayett McCarthy opened her hands to reveal the late star’s name written on her palms.
LCF Preview the Style Stars of Tomorrow
At Banking Hall in the City, London College of Fashion hosted its second ever MA Menswear showcase to coincide with LCM A/W16. It was a great place to spot young British design talent – after all, LCF is where the likes of J.W. Anderson, Rory Parnell-Rooney and James Long studied. Some of our highlights included Jekeun Cho’s colourful depression-inspired pieces, Bethany Williams’ intriguing mishmashes of print and texture, and Grant-James Povey’s supersized Elizabethan-look shapes. Keep an eye out – we predict big things for these graduates! We also managed to sneak backstage.
Moschino Teams Up with Gilbert & George
Bringing his unique brand of humour and play to London Collections: Men, Jeremy Scott returned to the capital with his latest menswear range for Italian luxury label Moschino. This season, he teamed up with East London-based creative duo Gilbert & George; a collaboration that initially took place over tea as Scott discussed his ideas for a ‘supersaturated’ collection. The artists opened up their archive, giving Scott free rein over the highly visual graphic prints that later found their way into Moschino’s trippy, colour-drenched A/W16 styles.
One to Watch: Grace Wales Bonner
We’re big fans of the MAN initiative here at Spindle, and were excited to see the debut catwalk show of up-and-coming designer and recent Central Saint Martins graduate Grace Wales Bonner. Showing alongside fellow MAN talents Rory Parnell-Rooney and Charles Jeffrey, Bonner’s collection Spirituals wowed with an evocative exploration of African history merged with 70’s twists, sensual materials and Afrofuturism undertones.
Sibling Step into the Ring
In one of our favourite shows of the season, knitwear specialists Sibling got ready to rumble with a sporty collection inspired by the world of boxing. Playfully camp rather than out-and-out macho, highlights included humongous boxing robes and knitted head masks and gloves, set off by shimmering yarn medals and vibrant patterned tees. The range was influenced by famous portraits of Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat in boxing gear, shot by Michael Halsband in 1985.
Sartorial Subversion at Alexander McQueen
Forgoing its usual place at Paris Fashion Week, the Alexander McQueen label made the trip back across the channel to London for A/W16 , returning to the birthplace of its late founder, Lee McQueen. The one-season-only show was consequently much hyped, taking place in the courtyard of the Foreign & Commonwealth Office. Following an atmospheric piano solo, models took to the runway in a collection that experimented with a riff on contrast aesthetics, revamping the brand’s signature codes. Flawless tailoring combined elements of Victoriana, military dress and formal suiting, while moody prints took the form of moth and butterfly lab specimens; a nod to Sarah Burton’s natural history inspiration. Best of all though was McQueen’s signature rebellious undertone, coming through in oversized jewellery, red eyes and decorative safety pins pierced through the face, punk-style.