If AW16 has been anything to go by so far, then punk is not dead. Or at least not the unapologetic confidence of 80s style attitudes. Typical Freaks are known for their outlandish designs (you just have to acknowledge the brand name to understand their mantra) and punk spirit runs through their veins. This season mixes this loud and proud spirit with a more subtle appreciation of the designer’s own personal interests. We talk to one half of the duo, Seun Ade-Onojobi, during the AW16 presentation about this season’s inspiration, the design process and that really catchy fem-punk playlist whirling overhead.
What’s the story this season?
It’s kind of like a comic book/superhero appreciation society, mixed with a bit of military stuff. When we thought of AW16, we thought ‘what’s going to be big in our culture?’ and being superhero geeks, we thought let’s pay homage to the superheroes.
So you read a lot of comic books… What’s the favourite?
This collection screams punk, do you agree?
Yeah, it’s like a theme that runs through everything we do, so it’s always going to be rebellious. We never want anything too pretty, too girly. It’s always got a bit of an edge to it.
Tell me about a Typical Freak. What kind of girl is she?
Fairly young, or just young at heart. She’s probably a bit on the outside of society somehow, in her politics or her views. Just someone who likes to be outside the mainstream.
What materials have you used this season and how have you constructed them?
We tried to combine really classic, wintery materials that are probably not that ‘fashionable’; shiny polyester with a really rugged material like muslin and hard cotton to get this really big contrast. A lot of it is more about the process, that we’ve washed it to death to get these kind of weird fabrics to get a lot of these different colours in there. We start with a raw material that is quite hard and crisp and then we make the garment; wash it and dye it and then it kind of shrinks to fit. So it gets this really weird shape.
How have you developed and progressed since last season?
We tried to get a bit more durable and functional because it’s winter. We’re used to making more summer clothes with light fabric, so we tried to make something you could really wear in winter and feel like you could test the elements in it.
What’s the playlist?
It’s a lot of easy, soft, semi-punk kind of music. A lot of The Go-Go’s. One of them is from this film called You’re Next, it’s also in a film called The Diary of a Teenage Girl, I can’t remember the band. I think it kind of suits the theme.
How would you say music plays a part in your fashion?
Yeah, when we design a collection – whether it’s for a catwalk or a presentation – it’s always in the back of our minds what kind of music fits it. Sometimes certain music will influence the garment itself. It’s not like punk where everyone is angry and screaming, it’s a happy, slightly commercial punk.
What is the biggest influence to your style when you go to design?
A lot of the time we just try to look at things like, ‘what have a lot of people not been doing yet?’ Some designers we liked when growing up were Westwood, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe. One of my favourite designers from when I was younger was Jeff Griffin. He wasn’t well-known, he was a menswear designer who washed a lot of fabrics and degraded it.
How’s the future looking for Typical Freaks, what’s in the pipeline?
We’re always thinking of next season. Immediately now, probably Paris Fashion Week because we’re doing a showroom in Paris. So we’re just sorting out stuff for that now.
Thanks! Check out more pics from the show below, and the rest of our London Fashion Week coverage.