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LFW: SIBLING

Sunday 21 February 2016

SIBLING AW16 pays homage to Grace Jones in full flurry. For many, she is just as well known for her party presence in 1980s New York as she is for her music – by others she is recognised as a poster child for Postmodernism and appreciated for her gender fluid tomboy-ness and fiery sass. When questioned on their choice for using Jones as this season’s inspiration, the designer twosome – Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery – simply replied “why not?” and continued with a number of compliments and remarks of appreciation for the singer, supermodel, producer and actress. Bryan added, “It’s not about being a woman and having long, blonde hair. It’s about being yourself.” And it’s quite true, for a studio as confident in its own vibrant flavour, who else could have been a better influence for a collection based on the 80s New York clubbing scene?

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Specifically, Sibling have focused on Jones’ iconic ‘Portfolio’ album cover, a colourful representation of the party girl that this season recreates. Sibling have become known for their technically demanding knits since launching in 2008, and this season sees an influx of metallic knitted lurex yarn in electric violet, ‘NYC taxi yellow’ and of course, lilac. Models shimmered down the catwalk in black patterned sequins (a clubbing necessity), while others donned oversized full-length patterned coats and chunky knits resembling the Manhattan skyline. Most notably perhaps, was the hooded numbers that directly referenced Grace Jones’ stye and indirectly reminded us of Kylie Minogue’s incredibly low-cut hooded number in her ‘I Just Can’t Get You Out of My Head’ music video. These hoods are of course replicated in true Sibling fashion: lined in chunky, brightly coloured tinsel.

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For a collection based on Jones who thrived on her strong, sometimes masculine aura, there is certainly an air of feminine sexuality at work. Dresses are cut with thigh high slits, necklines are swinging low and star nipple patties make an appearance. The full lilac jumpsuit with a tinsel ruffle neck is exceptionally sheer, reminding us that although this is an autumn/winter collection, the confidence to bare all against during the colder months is what will give us all the ultimate Grace factor.

Check out more pics from the show below, and the rest of our London Fashion Week coverage.

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