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LCM: Matthew Miller

Wednesday 15 June 2016

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Matthew Miller’s SS17 collection is given the name ‘Tempest’, and first thoughts associated with the name conjure memories of William Shakespeare’s well known play in which the turning weather plays a significant role. It turns out that Miller’s collection was very much effected by the weather – specifically clouds. Miller has been inspired by British romantic John Constable’s ‘A Study of Clouds 1871’ for some time, a copy of which hung from the walls of his council flat in the early 80s. Miller takes this image and reprints it on his well known bleached denim, creating dreamy matching jacket and jean looks which form an interesting collaboration between thick, edgy fabric with classically beautiful imagery.

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This unique contrast speaks for itself when you learn that this season is also closely connected to the “ill-fated” skinhead culture; the idea exposed by MIller’s choice of shaven-headed models, smart skirts and bleached denim – all of which made up the iconic fashion style of skinheads during 1960’s England. It was a social group who’s styled was pieces together from various different sources and references, and in the same way, Miller’s SS17 collection comes together like a unusually pieced jigsaw puzzle.

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 The collection is an amalgamation of different cultural styles, from different times and places in history. SS17 see’s Miller deconstruct and redesign an antique Kimono, a disused tuxedo, and an oversized cardigan. Elsewhere on a few of the most memorable looks from the collection, do you see a cluster of badges that on closer inspection are trapped taxidermy butterflies, “signifying the fragility of beauty”. It’s a soft approach to the skinhead culture and removes it from it’s tough characteristics by uniquely placing it against the concept of beauty under a light that ultimately highlights it’s vulnerability.

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Words: Hannah Sargeant
Images: Milly Grange-Bennett