LCM: Phoebe English Men’s

Known for her use of fabrics and contrasting textures and structures, Phoebe English returns with her third menswear collection and first mens presentation for SS17. Renowned for her light, crisp materials contrasting against tougher textures, fabric straps and ties, and her tailored craft at creating unusual and complex structures, English’s style has stuck with it’s design ethos since she first began establishing her signature aesthetic.

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English’s presentations recreate certain scenarios relevant to the story behind her collection in dark, dimly light spaces with models oblivious to onlookers. SS17’s menswear presentation took on the same format, with male models peacefully embroidering, casually concentrated on their work. The act communicates to onlookers the idea of innovation and a craft that is always in process; an idea that is an emblem of herself as a designer.

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Minimalism is always at the core of Phoebe English and interestingly, her clever yet sparing use of detail (whether it be a tie strap, a fold or simply striped pattern) is magnified and made significant by her simplicity elsewhere. This season saw a neutral palette of white, navy and grey on long, hooded garments including the well known crossover fold on the upper body.

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Constantly evolving one collection at a time from previous seasons, English takes notable techniques from her previous pieces in order to take her steps forward as a designer. SS17 has seen a wealth of gender fluidity from the designs themselves to the models and the way they were presented, and English is also part of the driving force that blurs the lines between women and menswear design this season. Concentrating on the unity between the two, English’s LFW and LCM collections borrow and compliment elements of each other in perfect harmony, strengthening and solidifying her overall aesthetic and promoting herself as a modern age designer concerned with pushing forward into the future of fashion innovation.

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Words: Hannah Sargeant
Images: Milly Grange-Bennett