With the Milanese answer to SS17 menswear at it’s finish, we reflect on some of the key trends spotted on the runways of Milan Fashion Week.
The American desert, the Western movie, the modern day cowboy: this style and source of inspiration has been trickling in and out of collections for the last few seasons. For SS17, Milan’s big names have developed the Wild West from the dusty bareback rodeo into the suave, fashion-conscious, cotton-thread-counting rider of the Arizonian desert. MFW’s western looks scream luxury, desirable garments with classic tried-and-tested structures and generous helpings of intricate detail. Typically Italian, Fendi and Missoni’s shirts, leathers and prints in sandy beiges and tans against a navy base is well thought out. Other stand-out looks inspired by the West goes out to Salvatore Ferragamo’s embroidered jackets, a genius take of the popular Harrington jacket merging with Western details and a cowboy collar.
Stripes are one of those patterns that will never frazzle out into the night, and SS17 shows that after all this time, the world is still not tiresome of the humbling simple stripe. You won’t find a fashion week without it, but the stripe design is in particular full force for SS17 – rather, you’ll be trying to count the collections that didn’t feature the popular motif. Andrea Pompilio’s collection of pure 70’s aesthetic celebrates stripes to the max, with various styles of the pattern clashing and working against itself vertically and horizontally. Fendi’s relaxed pool party collection incorporated a number of various striped designs, from distinguishable black and khaki tones to more minute thinly lined white and blues – a similarly discrete stripe that can be seen in Diesel’s jackets and trousers from the SS17 Black and Gold collection.
Fine knit polo shirts and technical cycling shorts add modern reality. #VersaceLive #MFW #Versace Men’s SS17 show A photo posted by Versace (@versace_official) on
Against the grain of Milan’s busy prints and excessive detail, SS17 also see’s a complete anthesis with total one colour looks. Playing it safe has never looked so good, and SS17 has proven that catching eyes doesn’t just lie in the hands of detailed pattern work and clashing colour. The grouping of minimal, quiet pieces of the same colour ultimately comes together to create an intended bold statement – simple yet effective. Versace was a well-talked name for taking on that ethos this season, with a complete look in head-to-toe purple made up of sandals, cycling shorts, a polo shirt and matching mac playing homage to the late Prince.
Not exactly Milanese in it’s origin, it seems the more experimental of MFW’s showcased designers have given a nod to the aesthetics of UK’s past, with a scattering of ragged, bleached denim pieces. Dsquared2 was behind this one, going hard on British cultural movements and styles of the bygone years including punk, mod and glamrock. Incorporating blue denim jeans and jackets with white bleach detail styled alongside sparkling high-heeled boots and metallic trousers, Dsquared2’s denim plays with a more Marc Bolan-esque muse than MSGM for example, which recreated stonewashed jeans that you would have found in everyone’s 90’s wardrobe.