Fashion is constantly in a flux of repeating and recreating itself, and recent seasons have seen a major revamp of the 60’s/70’s eras to cater to the popular modern market. Northern Soul, a music and dance movement that swept across the dance halls and onto DJ’s turntables through early 1970’s Northern England has remained virtually untouched until now. The clothes that came with Northern Soul were all about fashionable practicality – skin-tight vests and large, voluminous wide leg trousers that made all the non-stop hours of high kicking, dropping and moving to the endless rhythm physically possible. From the Parisian greats, Givenchy modernised the look by taking on a sporty approach to the otherwise dated silhouette, while Dries Van Noten completed the culturally historic reference with the 70’s favourite colour palette: tan, brown and khaki.
Logos and slogans
Big, bold text statements and repetitive logos replaced printed patterns at PFW this season, as designers have cottoned on to the power of expressing messages or ideas with plain and simple words. Commes des Garçons was a leader in this stand-out trend, with transparent plastic pieces embodying bold, black text that read ‘The Kind is Naked’, ‘Shout out Aloud’, ‘Beauty is in the Eye’ and ‘IT’S MY FASHION’. Elsewhere, Kenzo (well-known for it’s heavy use of the ‘Kenzo’ brand logo) instead used “100% energy” and “Brilliant” motifs on hoodies and t-shirts, and Sébastien Meunier communicated the romance in Ann Demeulemeester’s collection with sheer vests reading “I am red with love”.
The classic punk style has been lurking in and out of recent collections across all the major fashion showcases, especially in it’s hometown, London. Perhaps taking on the fiery disposition of many Britons at the moment in response to the current political turmoil due to the EU Referendum, Paris has full on revisited the rebellious statement-making movement. Dior Homme took on Kings Road punk in full swing, adopting cut-off sleeve shirts, studs, badges, patches and checks with an unshakable attitude. Louis Vuitton also offered up a punk’d up collection, reworking punk’s well associated tartan checks in cigarette trousers and baggy wooly jumpers – similarly Ann Demeulemeester pulled out a number of slouchy scuffed-up knits reminiscent of Jonny Rotten’s open neck numbers.
Punk is one thing to scream about; another is this season’s affiliation with heavy rock. We’re talking old school mosh combat trousers in full-on black, ornamented with numerous chains at Dior Homme styled with black nail polish and black and red clashing pieces, while Off White Virgil Abloh sported oversized metal t-shirts, that looked a bit like band merch.