As ever, Paris Fashion Week Men’s last weekend and Paris Fashion Week: Haute Couture this week has seen some spectacular shows and innovative designs. Chanel and Dior’s haute couture shows were gorgeous, creating captivating worlds around their collections, while menswear collections were dominated by the ‘new normal’ trend. With so many stunning shows and new collections to keep up with, here’s our round up of the best of the Paris Fashion Week Men’s and Haute Couture showcases.
The fashion house collaborated with skatewear brand Supreme for their AW17 collection that they displayed at Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Louis Vuitton’s signature leather goods came in cherry red, emblazoned with the Supreme logo, while the clothing saw relaxed tailoring and casual staples reimagined and ready for the street, with half tucked-in shirts and loose outerwear. The Louis Vuitton and Supreme logos – these are both labels who make use of bold branding in their designs – graced numerous garments, from a scarf to a short-sleeved blue cardigan.
Demna Gvasalia, who is also the head designer for Vetements, continued his reign as coolest designer of the moment with Balenciaga’s AW17 show last Wednesday. Gvasalia aims to make ‘normal’ clothes feel special and unexpected, and he certainly achieved that in this collection of work-inspired clothing. The designer cited every employee from the intern to the CEO as influencing the collection, which ranged from suits to hoodies, redefining business wear by removing its rigidity and coldness, instead injecting warmer, cosier elements. Trainers were paired with tailored trousers, capturing the commuter look, while huge Balenciaga logos were splashed across oversized scarves, as well on leather tote bags that mimicked Bernie Sander’s campaign logo.
Maria Grazia Chiuri crafted an extravagant and magical fairytale world for Dior’s haute couture show, which was staged in the gardens of the Musée Rodin. A full-sized maze was strewn with berries, and a mirrored cube contained the moss-carpeted catwalk, over which the branches of a tree hung with ribbons and trinkets such as light bulbs, crystals, and gems. The fairytale mood of course continued into the collection, with flowing, fantasy-esque dresses and romantic, loose hairstyling. Many of the dresses also borrowed from the garden theme, embellished with flowers. However, the collection also saw a series of block colour tailored pieces, yet many were given a playful translucent mask or headdress to maintain the escapist theme.
For his latest haute couture collection for the fashion house, Karl Lagerfeld introduced an innovative new silhouette, presenting an alternative to the tall, thin shape usually seen on women’s catwalks by padding out hips and sculpting skirts into oval shapes. Lagerfeld’s inspiration for the collection was a 1920s sculpture by Alberto Giacometti entitled ‘Spoon Woman.’ Shown in the Grand Palais on Tuesday, a white catwalk and seating was paired with mirrored screens, giving a classically glamorous but modern feel to the show. Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid walked the catwalk, but the show was certainly stolen by Lily-Rose Depp in a beautiful pastel pink, frothy bridal dress.
This was an utterly creative show, with Rick Owen’s latest collection seeing sculpted outfits that looked like quilted sleeping bags and were reminiscent of balloon animals in shape. More oversized pieces were seen in the showcase, including large, utility-like trousers and innovatively shaped outerwear. The models’ hair was eccentrically styled, long and unruly, some appearing frizzy and matted. Owen’s collection took a large step away from the dominant trend of normcore styles for next autumn/winter, instead creating something truly unique and cutting edge.