Harry Xu followed up the success of his graduate collection ‘My Russian Symphony – Youth Prisoners’ with another menswear line inspired by Michael Chelbin’s photography. His AW17 collection focused on the psychological changes these prisoners face as they step out of prison for the first time, finally experiencing the world. The catwalk show also made the interesting decision to feature one female model amongst the male models, who had an androgynous look.
The collection featured embroidery throughout, including little snowdrop like flowers that hung off sleeves, backs of jackets, and gloves, as well as jewelled flowers on an oversized coat. Floral prints were seen on button-up shirts, a utility vest worn under a jacket, and a navy coat. The collection was full of more quirky touches and accessories, including crescent moon shaped glasses, thin rope wrapped around the models like bondage, and giant gloves. Another model wore a pair of gloves with a sheer floral shirt, and the collection saw many of these sheer shirts in a variety of colours and prints, which were often left unbuttoned and paired with a blazer. There were many jackets and blazers paired with slouchy trousers, a variety of jumpsuits cut in interesting, innovative styles, and outerwear pieces were seen in blues and army greens with a bold white stripe across the back.