This year, not only was New York Fashion Week Men’s was another brilliant showcase of cutting edge fashion design, but it saw numerous brands getting political and making bold statements about the political climate we currently live in. We went through our highlights, from seventies inspired collections, to shows full on inspired by protesters.
An extremely timely and political collection, Ricardo Seco’s AW17 line featured both men’s and womenswear, and was named ‘Juntos/Together,’ designed to support immigrants. The designer pulled inspiration from the flag of his birth country, Mexico, as well as the American flag, where he now lives. A sweater was embroidered with the coat of arms found on the Mexican flag, while t-shirts and sweatshirts were emblazoned with slogans such as “Tear Down This Wall. Make America Great Again.” A standout piece saw a coat in the green, white and red of the Mexican flag, with its coat of arms in the centre, and the words ‘Proud Immigrant’ across the back.
Maiden Noir took seventies inspiration and added some bohemian elements for their new collection. Reportedly inspired by the paintings and photographs of Cy Twombly, designer Nin Truong channelled this with corduroy suits, shearling collars, and striped silk shirts. There were also bomber jackets in velvet and silk and retro-tinged knitwear, as well as a variety of interesting tailoring.
The showcase of Private Policy’s latest collection was certainly innovative, seeing models lined up against chipboard walls, and drawn on model’s faces were a variety of slogans such as ‘nerdy,’ ‘sneaky,’ ‘shy,’ ‘stuck up,’ ‘gangsters,’ ’terrorist,’ and ‘refugee.’ Indeed, the brand once again aimed to deliver a social message in their showcase, exploring political issues and globalisation. The collection itself had a youthful and edgy feel, with contrasting neon and dark colours, deconstructed sleeves, and unfinished denim. The standout piece had to be a motorcycle jacket and trousers made out of the flags of the world, perfectly reflecting the brand’s message.
David Naman’s AW17 collection saw warm colours and neutrals, plaid and checkered prints, and seasonal outerwear such as trench coats and smart jackets. The outfits were relaxed but with a smart edge, pairing smart trousers with a casual denim jacket, and roll neck jumpers under suit jackets. It felt perfectly autumnal with warm neutrals and accessories such as scarves in fair isle prints.
By Robert James
By Robert James was another brand to get political, taking their show to another level, with models holding picket signs and dressed like protestors in camo jackets, holding backpacks, scarves tightly wrapped around their necks, and wearing beanies. The label directly confronted President Trump, with picket signs including messages such as ‘Not My Govt,’ ‘By Robert James USA #1 Brand #AlternativeFacts,’ ‘Planned Parenthood Saves Lives,’ and ‘Fight Fascism.’ Many of the signs were familiar from recent protests on the Muslim ban, the defunding of Planned Parenthood, and the President’s band to build a wall on the Mexican border.
The debut collection from R.Swaider referenced mod and punk rock styles, seeing utilitarian styles, iconic plaids and tartan prints. The models all wore chunky black boots and shoes reminiscent of Dr. Martens, a punk staple. Designer Rafal Swaider has said he wanted to combine British punk style with Parisian romance, as seen in the look of a soft cashmere mock turtleneck paired with an oversized check shirt. Leopard print was also seen multiple times throughout the edgy AW17 collection.
Woodhouse’s AW17 collection was edgy and innovative, seeing a variety of interesting shapes and colour combinations across the collection. Bright yellows, pinks, blues and greens were all seen, as well as quirky accessories, with chokers reading the brand name. Outerwear came in a variety of interesting shapes, from bomber jackets to anorak style coats. The collection also saw oversized shapes, sweats, ruffled trousers, a pink slogan sweater, and a shiny coat with a blue furry trim.