London Fashion Week: The Spindle Roundup

Friday 21 September 2018

Missed this years LFW? Don’t worry we’ve you covered in our highlights from this year…

Riccardo Tisci’s Debut Burberry Collection

Burberry’s appointment of Riccardo Tisci as the successor to long-standing designer, Christopher Bailey, sparked extensive discussion within the industry, his debut collection eagerly anticipated. As the crowds gathered in the dark space, the roof opened, allowing sunlight to flood in. Unlike previous Burberry shows there were no visible celebs on the front row, driving home a clear point: the show was about the clothes, and only the clothes.

Showcasing 134 looks, the collection was huge. Split into three parts – refined, relaxed and evening, the collection ranged from an updated classic country look to reimagined punk, city commuters to Generation Z streetwear, providing something for everyone. Frequent flashes of the iconic Burberry check and burgundy passports as necklaces, Tisci playfully challenged and questioned the true meaning of Britishness as well as Burberry’s house codes. Clearly shaking up Britain’s most loved brand, Riccardo Tisci has unveiled a new era of luxury fashion.

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‘Kingdom’, @RiccardoTisci17’s debut runway show . #BurberryShow #LFW

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Erdem’s Binary Blurring Show 

Inspired by historical references, Erdem created a powerful collection exploring the story of Fanny and Stella, two Victorian male lovers who dressed and lived as women. In 1870 the pair were arrested for being dressed as their alter egos. Using this infamous story, Erdem celebrated the power of dress for self-expression and self-identity, reminding us of our freedom to dress how we want and love who we want.

Gender fluidity was heavily prevalent. Men and women were styled the same, not only in terms of their clothing, but their hair and make-up too. Offstage, hair stylist, Anthony Turner, created strict Victorian-style plaits, and Val Garland made use of cotton balls to wipe pops of colour across the eyelid, creating a dewy and bohemian vibe.

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ERDEM Spring/Summer ’19 show at the @nationalportraitgallery #ErdemSS19 #LFW

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JW Anderson Celebrates Femininity 

Ahead of the show JW Anderson’s collection was heralded as both menswear and womenswear. And yet not one man made an appearance on the runway. Although the collection featured pieces of menswear, the show was a celebration of femininity and rejected gender dressing. Puffy sleeves, cutaway skirts and jackets were all used to pay homage to JW Anderson’s 10thyear at London Fashion Week. Juxtaposing traditional with experimental, JW Anderson tapped into textures and patch-work, creating a summery mood of loose, layered shapes.

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SS19 SHOW WATCH THE FULL RUNWAY SHOW ONLINE NOW LINK IN BIO @jonathan.anderson @benjaminbruno_ @ashleybrokaw @michelgaubert @aarondemey1 @anthonyturnerhair @holmesprod @dysonhair #JWASS19 #JWANDERSON #LFW

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Fashion East Newbie Yuhan Wang 

Newbie and latest addition to Fashion East, Yuhan Wang presented her debut London Fashion Week show. Building on her MA collection at Central Saint Martins, Wang created a collection based on dishabille dressing, describing her work as “Beauty with weirdness, softness, delicacy and sensibility”. Layering models in pastel shades, Wang took inspiration from her personal experience and creative development by comparing and contrasting Asian femininity with Western culture and norms. Straight out of university, this Fashion East newbie is certainly one to watch.

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Yuhan Wang 💚💚💚 @yuhanwangyuhan #yuhanwang #fashioneast

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First Fur-Free Fashion Week

Ahead of London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council announced that London Fashion Week would be the first major fashion week to go completely fur-free. The news came after the BFC carried out a survey of all official designers showcasing their SS19 collections, all of whom pledged to go fur-free. In a statement, the BFC announced: “The BFC survey results reflect a cultural change based on ideals and choices made by designer businesses, international brands as well as consumer sentiment but also encouraged by the stance of multi-brand stores who are moving away from selling fur”. The survey is part of BFC’s Positive Fashion initiative; a platform designed to encourage best industry practice and positive change with regards to sustainability, equality and diversity.